Where were we (several weeks ago, you know, the last time I actually posted something)?

Anyway, where was I? Oh, yeah! Vienna!

So, the morning of October 31^st we hopped on our train from Bratislava bound for Vienna. It was hard to leave our friends Saskia and Matje, as they had been such wonderful hosts and we’d had such a great time, but other cities called. After a short trip across the border (I think it was only about an hour to an hour-and-a-half), we arrived in Vienna’s “Train Station South,” or “Hauptbahnhof Süd.” I must say, however, that it was a bit of a let-down. When one walks through the doors of the train station, that particular part of Vienna is rather dingy and dirty. It was not at all like the Old World European Capital City that I was expecting. Then again, considering that it is a modern European capital with a lot of tourists, residents, etc., it really should be no surprise that the area near the train station was chock-full o’ cars and the resulting smog.

Just in case anyone was confused about where we were, they do make t-shirts to help clarify.

In any case, we quickly made our way to our hotel, Hotel Kolbeck, and checked in. Like the first impression of Vienna, the hotel was not really anything to write home about, but since that defeats the purpose of the blog, here goes. The reception area of Hotel Kolbeck was nice, with a quaint exhibition that showed what the menu at the turn of the century looked like, fashions of days past at Hotel Kolbeck, etc. The stairs up to our room were a bit steep, but finely tiled and everything seemed nice and well appointed. Then we got into our room. That was a definite minus point.

Now, I’m not terribly picky about my hotel rooms, despite having worked in hotels for a number of years. Even though, I do know what things can be easily cleaned up/taken care of, and that means that having big streaks of something on the walls of our cupboard size hotel room was less than impressive. However, we got a single room that was relatively inexpensive and, given the brief nature of our stay in Vienna, we didn’t really intend on spending that much time there. Which worked out, as luck would have it!

Not long after we checked in, we headed off into the old part of town to find one of my former professors. I really liked old Vienna, since the streets were narrow and cobble-stoned but there were a lot of high-end shops. I am not really into shopping (gasp! Surprise!), but the atmosphere there was really what I think of when I consider Old World cities. We got to see the Church where the Hapsburgs were crowned from the 1830s onwards, one of Mozart’s houses, a sculpture that thanks the Lord for not killing the entire population back during a Black Plague outbreak in the 17th century, and a few other historically significant places as we were trying to find the café where we were to meet Dr. Jordan. Eventually, we rounded a corner and I saw my professor walking towards us. Even though we had never met (she had been on my master’s thesis committee and wrote a very important book that I used in my thesis, but she’d been in Austria the entire time), we somehow recognized each other and headed in.

A model of the Stephansdom, the church where the Hapsburgs were crowned.

The Stephansdom's front.

The beautifully tiled roof of the Stephansdom.

Detail of the Stephansdom. Note the Austrian eagle atop the tower!

A plaque adorning Mozart's house.

Mozart playing host.

Ruins that were recently unearthed in Vienna with the darker stones dating all the way back to the Romans.

We spent several hours in a small but crowded coffee house (where I had the best bread pudding I have had in my entire life… Mmmm…), discussing individual histories, academic goals, and really just getting to know one another. After that, we walked Dr. Jordan through much of the city as she headed home, then Nadine and I wandered about looking for a place to have dinner. Unlike most places here in Germany and also in the States, Austria does not have a smoking ban in restaurants, so most of them were simply too smoky for us to eat at. As luck would have it, though, that meant that we got to save a few Euros and pick up something extra special from an Imbiss: Horse-liver on a bun! Yummy! Now, I will admit that I was a little skeptical at first and that Nadine would have absolutely none of it, but it was really good! The horse liver was processed into a loaf, sliced into a thick slab, and put on a bun with some mustard. I know that it doesn’t sound that appetizing, but it was really not bad at all. The meat was moist, the spicy mustard complimented it really well, and the bun was warm and soft. Arguably one of the best things I ate the entire trip. At least, I remember it that way…

Downtown Vienna.

The (blurry) Lipizzaner Horses.

After finding a bit of dinner, we headed to a gelato place that the entire city was abuzz about. Let me say that it lived up to its hype! I know that I have mentioned gelato in previous posts, but this was easily the best frozen dessert that I have ever had! Finally we headed back to the hotel. It was still a bit early, and the town was getting a little bit loud because it was Halloween. Not that Europeans really celebrate Halloween, but it is getting more popular (thanks, globalization!) and we saw a bunch of people wandering around in costumes. So, we headed around the corner from our hotel and had a few beers and onion rings at a local pub before returning for the night. It turned out to be a really enjoyable date and was the best part of the day.

Vienna at Sunset.

We had a bit of breakfast the next morning, courtesy of Hotel Kolbeck, and then it was off to the train for our trip home. The train trip was essentially us sitting in a sardine can, and the guy across from me accidentally spilled a beer on me (he had set it on the tray belonging to a Mongolian woman sitting next to him, and when the train took a corner a little bit too fast, the can went flying), but other than that it was uneventful.

So, we’ve got one more trip to describe (Bruges, Belgium) and then we’re all caught up! Yay!

Nadine's Interlude: Winter Visitors

A very Happy New Year to everyone!

Before Adam goes back to filling in the blanks for our day in Vienna, I just thought I'd post a number of pretty pictures taken in Dresden these past couple of weeks.

We had a couple of lovely visitors from Shepherdstown staying with us - Thank you for coming over, Fred and Sarah, we had such an amazing time! - and were surprised by a ton of snow during the middle of their visit.

Enjoy the pictures! (photo credit belongs entirely to Sarah; thanks for always having your camera at the ready, too!)

Winter romance (not that I would be responsible for

the snow all over Adam's scarf and coat...)

Sarah's favorite motif - bicycles in the snow

(these ones are parked in front of the Dresden university library)

Gorgeous view of our neighborhood

The Frauenkriche, Dresden's pride and joy

Dresden Castle complex

The Augustusbrücke, linking old and new town

Apologies, Bratislava, and Vienna

It has come to my attention that I have been a bit negligent in keeping up with the blog. I rationalized at first that since we hadn’t been anywhere other than Dresden, Chemnitz, Leipzig, and Narsdorf for some time, why there was no need to do any posts. Sure, eating sundry animal parts that have been processed into a paste, sausage, or patty is fun and informative, but not everyone enjoys the culinary peculiarities. Especially when it involves goose- and pig-fat-based sandwich spreads. Not that I am planning on keeping them out of the blog, mind you, but I’m just saying a few people have been a bit squeamish.

Anyway, I thought to myself that I would wait until we’d been somewhere before I updated the blog. After all, the whole point of the blog was to commemorate our European adventures and we were planning on going to Bratislava and Vienna. “Sure,” I thought, “I’ll do it once we get back from that trip.” Ummm. Unfortunately we’ve been back for a little longer than I had initially intended. As in, we got back from there on November 1st… Heh-heh… Sorry!

Timeliness (or lack thereof) notwithstanding, we’ve recently taken a trip to Bratislava and Vienna! Let me start off by saying that Nadine and I are now avowed Slovakian nationalists. Slovakia, despite its portrayal in films as a sketchy, smoke-filled bastion of disillusioned former-communists that wash themselves outside in old washtubs while small dogs run past with severed hands in their mouths, it was actually quite nice. Smoky, sure, but where in Eastern Europe is it not? And I can happily say that we did not see a single severed hand, in the mouth of a dog or otherwise.

Why Bratislava, you might be thinking. Well, several years ago we met a Slovakian girl named Saskia who was living in Madison. We became fast friends during her short few months in the Midwest, and as soon as it looked like this whole Dresden thing was actually going to happen, we started looking at train tickets to Bratislava. And let me say that we were not disappointed.

We left Dresden on the morning of October 29th bound for Slovakia via Prague and Brno. The train ride was about six hours long and rather uneventful. I was happy that I got to take along a Cadbury’s Wunderbar (I’m a sucker for puns like this… I mean, Wunderbar is the German word for wonderful, while it could also be read as a Wunder Bar. Ah, those English… But, I digress) and even take a slightly unfocused picture of it. We got to watch some DVD’s courtesy of Nadine’s portable player, and before we knew it we were in Bratislava.

Our train route.

The slightly unfocused picture of the Wunderbar.

Saskia picked us up at the train station, and let me be the first to say that I have never met a better hostess. She had tram tickets in hand for the entire weekend, a plan for a tour of the town, and all the food and drink we could, well, eat and drink. Our first evening there was nice and relaxed, and we just hung out in their apartment, had some good homemade food (pasta with tuna, tofu, cottage cheese, and vegetables), and watched a Disney movie. Saskia loves animated films.

The next morning was a gorgeous start to our love affair with Bratislava. The sun rose over the Little Carpathians, a low mountain range that runs near the city, and greeted us with a hearty Dobrý Den! After a leisurely breakfast, we headed out into the town. We walked through one of the major shopping districts, and I was even surprised to see a McDonerkebab (Doner, or Döner as they are called in Germany, are lamb- or chicken-meat slices arranged on a pita with vegetables and a tzatziki sauce, and are VERY popular in Europe). It was nice, but nothing compared to where we were headed. Before too long Saskia said that we would be heading through the gates into the Old City.

The newer part of Bratislava.

To get into the Old City, you literally have to walk through the original gates and across a small moat. While the moat has since been drained and the drawbridge has been replaced by a stone bridge, the pulleys that were used to raise and lower the bridge remain. Once we got through the doors, Saskia took us to her favorite chocolate shop. I’ll admit that, though I like chocolate, I am not a “choc-o-holic” (despite the charges of heresy and blasphemy such an admission will probably incur). This shop, however, took the idea of chocolate and made it into one of the best edible items on the planet. Their whole menu was filled with chocolate drinks, and the counter was full of pralines, truffles, and other chocolate novelties. Also, when I say the drinks were chocolate, I mean they were effectively melted chocolate with goodies. Nadine had a drink that was chocolate with nuts and mango bits, I had something with chocolates, sour red berries (someone said bill berries, perhaps, but I’m still not sure), and some rather potent alcohol. The drink was called “The Slovakian,” so I figured that it would be a good try. Saskia had a drink with cream and chocolate and cherries which looked like it would have gone down just as well as either of the other two.

The gate to the Old City.

Detail of Old City gate, showing the pulleys from the drawbridge.

View of the Old City from the inside.

Some of the novelties at the chocolate shop: Nougat formed in the shape of corn, a fruit-flavored jelly drop, and a marzipan-filled date.

One of the most famous Bratislava baked goods, Bratislavský rožtek. It’s essentially a little sweet dough filled with a nut paste (or poppy-seed paste) and baked. Delicious!

After delicious chocolate drinks, we decided to go on a major walking tour of Bratislava’s Old City. For those of you not familiar with Bratislava’s illustrious past, it was the seat of the Hungarian Habsburg’s power from the 1500s through into the 1800s. Numerous kings and queens were crowned there, and one of our first stops included St. Michael’s Cathedral, THE coronation spot. There were even little golden crowns embedded in the cobblestone streets to denote the path that the royalty used to take on Coronation Day. We followed them (backwards) for a little ways along the Danube and found ourselves at a beautiful castle/royal palace that overlooked the Slovakian border with Austria and Hungary.

Nadine and Saskia in the Old City.

Random Latin painted on the side of an old house.

St. Michael’s Cathedral…

…and a detail from the tower. Note the crown on the pillow.

Bratislava Castle.

Looking towards Austria and Hungary from Bratislava Castle.

After wandering for several hours, we were famished, so we stopped at this small, dimly lit restaurant for lunch. Nadine stuck with the stand-by of crepes with fruit filling, and while I have to admit that they were great, they paled in comparison to my dish: little gnocchi-like things in a cottage-cheese sauce with Canadian bacon. It was creamy, it was cheesy, it was salty, smoky, and bacon-y, but the most amazing thing was that it was made with real cottage cheese! Every time that we have looked for cottage cheese (which isn’t really that often… I mean, it’s just cottage cheese…), I’ve come up with local variants that have very little to do with the ubiquitous Minnesota side aside from a (probable) common dairy background. So, imagine my surprise when I discovered that all it took was a trip to Slovakia to find the little curds.

Following our late lunch, we headed back out into wonderful Bratislava, which included the old Town Hall and crossing the Danube and exploring the other side of the city. While crossing offered us an excellent opportunity to view the city from without (we’d only seen Bratislava from the ground-level, deep in the heart of it all), I must say that the charm of the Slovakian capital doesn’t quite extend across the Danube into its suburbs. Though the other side of the river is complete with a huge mall and is historically semi-significant, given that Napoleon bombarded Bratislava from that side, it was just somewhat, well, blah. Despite an overcrowded tram ride back later that evening, we were very happy to make our way to the city center.

The building where the Peace of Pressburg was signed. Bratislava was known as Pressburg for many years, and this is where Napoleon signed a peace deal with Austria during the Napoleonic Wars.

The Old Town Hall.

Detail of the Old Town Hall. Note the cannonball!

Danube River. It really is blue!

The “new” parts of Bratislava.

The “UFO” of Bratislava. It’s actually a restaurant on the New Bridge over the Danube.

The UFO at sunset.

Since we’d had a full day of walking and sight-seeing, it was high time for us to head off to dinner. Saskia and Matej felt sorry for their dog Minka, who had been alone all day, and so they decided that we should bring her with us to dinner. So, after gathering the dog we headed to Animal’s Pub, where the menu included a bit of kibble for their four-legged patrons. Unfortunately, however, so much time has passed since we were there that I can’t give a blow-by-blow of the evening’s repast, and I only remember that I had something with lots of meat. While this may seem mean and cruel, given that we were eating with a vegetarian (Matej) and an animal (Minka), I do remember that it was delicious as well! I vaguely remember eating fries with my meal, but that’s about it.

Everyone was full afterwards, but Minka wasn’t quite ready to call it a night, so we headed over to a small hole-in-the-wall place that specializes in these small Slovak pancakes called paláčinki. Again, time, language, and distance has made the specifics a bit fuzzy, but I do remember that for a mere pittance, we all had these cute little filled pancakes. Mine was something called a Geodeka or something, which meant that it had a chocolatey-caramel sauce inside. I’m not sure what it was aside from wonderfully sweet and highly satisfying after all of the meat (I think?) that I had at Animal’s Pub.

Anyway, after that we headed back to Saskia and Matej’s place for the night, and the next morning it was off to Vienna. We’d had a wonderful day and a half in Slovakia, and it completely made fans out of us. Since then, Saskia was kind enough to send us a basic Slovak textbook, though I’ve been too busy to crack it open yet. In any case, I can highly recommend Slovakia and Bratislava!

The Little Carpathians from Saskia’s apartment.

For Vienna, however, you’ll all have to wait for part two, since it is Christmastime and we are enjoying the holidays at Nadine’s parents' house. Again, my apologies to all for such intermittent updates, but if it’s any consolation there are just two more trips to talk about!

Merry Christmas!

Playing Catch-Up

Sorry for leaving you all in the lurch! We've only been home six days in the last two weeks, which leaves us but little time to update. Curious as to what we did? Keep reading!

First off, we made our first international trip (well, while we're on our international trip…) to Děčín, in the Czech Republic. By the way, Děčín is pronounced "Dyecheen," for those of you that don't speak Czech, or don't have a wife and friends that speak it! A good friend of ours from Madison is there for a year teaching English and working on an International Policies project. Currently, she's the closest American, and she's definitely the closest Minnesotan (Amanda is from St. Cloud). We took the train across the border, where Amanda met us at the train station. It was a rainy, gloomy day, but we had great company, so the time flew by.

The next day, we got to visit with our friends Jana and Matthias. They've got two small children (one is two years old, and the other is eight months), so we got to experience life with little ones for a short time. They're fun, but noisy!

The day after that, we took a sight-seeing trip to a little district of Dresden called Löbtau to watch a movie called I Served the English King, or something like that (the title was in German). Nadine wanted to practice her Czech, since the movie is set in the Czech Republic before, during, and after World War II. Unfortunately, you never hear Czech being spoken, since the Germans have a penchant for dubbing, rather than subtitling their foreign language imports.

Löbtau was… interesting. Whenever we've discussed that part of Dresden with people, they've either given us a surprised look or knowingly chuckled. The movie theater that we went to is in an old factory, which Nadine thought would be hip and cool. Unfortunately, it was also located in the dingy, poverty-stricken, and politically radical part of Dresden. We've decided not to revisit the district, in part because it was the only time I have ever been that nervous in Europe. There are definitely some scary (and fiercely xenophobic) parts of Dresden, but fortunately, we now know that they're mostly in Löbtau.

After that we were in Narsdorf for a few days, watching the cats sleep under the apple trees. Well, it was a bit cold outside, so they spent most of their time inside, begging for food. Finally, on Monday we went shopping for a new jacket for Nadine. As you may be getting, the weather here took a sudden and unexpected turn for the worse. The weekend before we went to Děčín, we were visiting Nadine's parents for a few days. Since it's a little ways from Dresden, we had to bring a few days' worth of clothes. It was nice and warm (upper sixties, lower seventies), so we brought t-shirts and thin little jackets. That was Friday. Saturday dawned rainy and cold (lower forties), and we were woefully without anything warm for two days. We're still waiting for it to warm up, but the rumor is that it's coming at the end of this week… We'll see.

One of the biggest things that we've noticed here might be the weather. We're so used to the Continental climate that the Midwest enjoys (or suffers through, depending), that having the weather turn so suddenly really leaves us spinning. It's so common for us to have clouds, then rain, then sun, then rain, then sun, then clouds, all in the same day. Plus, there doesn't seem to be any accurate way of predicting anything. It's not like Wisconsin, where we know that if it is raining, it will rain for the next several days. Conversely, if it is sunny, we'll have beautiful weather for a week.

So, anyway, that's where we've been for the last couple of weeks! Busy-busy-busy… Photos are coming, so keep your eyes peeled!

Leipzig and Chemnitz and Dresden, Oh My!

What a whirlwind of activity these last few days have been, as we prepare to start our new lives in Germany! First to Leipzig, where we did a bit of shopping and I picked up some ingredients for one of my world-famous meals; then to Chemnitz the next day to see old friends; finally to Dresden (after I made my mouth-watering Fettuccine Alfredo with chicken… recipe to come in a later post, undoubtedly) to see one of our apartment choices.

This was our first train ride so far, and it was short but sweet. The ride from Narsdorf to Leipzig is short, made all the more so by some super-fast trains. We didn't have very many people on the train with us, although just on the other side of the seat there was a large, angry-looking woman who seemed… peeved that we were taking pictures and not just quietly sitting still. She kept to herself though (fitting, I think), and the ride was uneventful. (Pictures can be found below... I forgot that Nadine included them in her P.S. a few days ago!)

Once we got into Leipzig, we met with our friend Katja, and had coffee while we caught up a bit.

The café was near the Thomaskirche, where a guy named Joe used to play the organ. The nice thing about Leipzig is that it's so welcoming that even some guy named Joe can get his own statue.

"Joe" Bach.


The Thomaskirche in Leipzig.

Okay, I'm not sure how long he was in Leipzig, and he probably wouldn't appreciate me calling him "Joe," but Bach and the cultural history of Leipzig really come through when you're wandering the streets there. The streets are clean, the people are generally friendly, and you've got this feeling of a past that you can't beat. Plus, when you're in Leipzig (and probably other places, I just haven't found them yet), you can pick up Spritzringe. We stopped at a little café for lunch with Nadine's mom (schnitzel baguette sandwich for me; fruit and yogurt for Nadine; and a salad and fruit and yogurt for Nadine's mom), and Nadine and I had Sprtizringe for dessert.

I know that I have previously discussed the merits of Kuchen. Indeed, I stand by Kuchen as one of the best desserts available to man. However, Spritzringe definitely deserve their space in the Pantheon of Sweets. These delectable, puffy pastry rings are covered with a sweet, creamy glaze; at the risk of becoming a blasphemous heretic, I would describe them as donuts' European kin. But, if you will, imagine the fluffiest, softest, moistest donut you've ever had, then top it with a simple glaze that melts when you look at it. Mmm. Yes, I'm drooling.

Mmmm... Spritzring...

After that, it was off to do a bit of shopping, and then home.

The next day, we went to Chemnitz. We did, however, have to ride bicycles up to the train station, since we were running late and it's a short piece from Nadine's parents' house. As you may notice, my memory of that morning is tinged with less-than-joyful thoughts, as I don't describe the short journey with enthusiasm. Apparently, my, ahem… purely coincidental riding of Nadine's mom's bike that coincided with the bike's unfortunate (though only temporary) self-destruction, has led to my being banned from that bike. That's right, I was stuck with her dad's bike.

My nemesis. The one with the seat that angles sharply upward.

After a soothing ride to Chemnitz Hauptbahnhof (Main Train Station), we were picked up by our friends David and Susanne. David and Nadine have known each other since they were in elementary school and David is from the same town as Nadine. We spent a quiet afternoon looking at pictures, and Susanne made a baked noodle-ham-cheese dish, which, along with the best cucumber salad I've ever had kept us all full and happy.

David and Susanne.

Then, David and Susanne dropped us off at our other friends' house. Those of you who've known us for at least a year and a half may remember that we went to Germany last year to be at Susi and Marcel's wedding; they live in Chemnitz with their 3-year-old son Noah, and we spent a late afternoon with them before high-tailing it back to Narsdorf on the train.

Finally, the next day we had the delicious Fettuccine Alfredo for lunch, then skipped off to Dresden to see one of the possible apartments. There will be more on that to come in the next few days.

As for now, it's time for me to sign off, since we need to get up early tomorrow and head off to Dresden again… Stay tuned!

Of Idyllic Days and Broken Gearshifts

As I finally admitted to my mom today on the phone, yes, we are definitely on vacation! Our days are filled with hours of sleeping in (we blame it on the jet-lag… right, jet-lag…); late lunch, usually something warm, delicious, and hearty; a bit of sun and afternoon laziness topped off with coffee and Kuchen; then you try desperately to digest before dinner comes around, consisting of slices of black bread and cold cuts or cheese or both; as if that wasn't enough, as the sun dips low over the hills of Narsdorf, it's time for a Radeberger beer, then off to bed. For those of you studying German in preparation for a visit to wonderful Deutschland, Kuchen is the German word for cake. That, however, is usually where the similarity ends; when I say "Kuchen," I don't mean yellow cake with frosting or any such thing. Instead, it is this wonderful layered bar with a sweet, yeasty bottom, fruit or some other type of filling, and then a streusel topping. If you've ever had my peach or blackberry Kuchen, you may be able to extrapolate out the complex, amazing dessert that it is.

Every now and again we do rouse out of our tryptophan-induced slumber and venture out into the world, however. As Nadine just pointed out to me, "Hey, we're way more active than that!" For example: following a filling and delectable meal of meat-filled, braised cabbage leaves (don't knock it- it tastes a lot better than it sounds…) we went for a hike with Nadine's parents. Rochlitzer Berg is the local mountain, which, as any good native of Narsdorf can tell you, is a major and noteworthy hill- er, I mean, mountain.

The way from Narsdorf to Rochlitz Mountain. Note the lush woods on the mountain.

While the exact elevation may be in question (I'm still working on the "meters" to "feet" or "yards" conversion), one thing I can attest to is its beauty. Nearly every visit to Germany over the last nine years has included a visit to Rochlitzer Berg, if only to visit the café at the top (it's accessible by car, thankfully). Having grown up in the woods of Northern Minnesota, it's like a home-away-from-home-away-from-home for me. Some things are very similar to the plants and animals I've known since I was small.

Ferns.

Some, however, are not.

The photo is blurry (which doesn't help), but I have no idea what these flowers are...

Either way, last Sunday we made the first of (hopefully) many trips to that outdoor paradise; we didn't go all the way to the top since we had just eaten, but just being there was enough for me.

Path wending through the woods on Rochlitz Mountain.

An ancient marker on Rochlitz Mountain. Note the sword etched on it.

Now to the point in question: the broken gearshift.

As Nadine pointed out in her post, her mom's bicycle broke yesterday. As she also gleefully pointed out, I was riding it when said breaking occurred. However (and more to my favor), the bike under scrutiny here is about fifteen years old. But, I'm getting ahead of myself.

Yesterday morning (or rather, yesterday early afternoon) as we were finishing up brunch, Nadine asked if I wanted to go for a bike ride to the town where she went to school as a kid. Admittedly, it took a bit of persuasion for me to agree to the bike ride, since previous attempts at leisurely bike rides through the countryside here have proven… painful. Previous excursions were courtesy Nadine's dad's bike, which has a seat that angles sharply upward in the front. Suffice it to say, there must be an acquired method of sitting to fully enjoy that bike's use, and I never was able to acquire it. My reluctance, however, was eased when Nadine's mom offered the use of her bike, a stalwart steed that had performed admirably since the early nineties.

Shortly thereafter, as we were gliding along the scenic route between Narsdorf and Ossa, I attempted to shift from the Pastor-Fred-Gear (read: super difficult. Pastor Fred normally bikes over thirty miles every day, going up and down mountains included…) down to normal human gears, I noticed that nothing happened. I was surprised at this, as there was zero resistance from the gear shift. It went down to one and up to, well, a higher number, then back again without any resistance. This meant that when we finally coasted into Ossa, I was not only concerned that Nadine's mom's bike was not functioning properly but also concerned that I would then have to bike all the way back with no easy gears. Ossa itself was nice, but the beauty was lost on me, as I worried over the impending ride and confession of destruction.

The hilly, hilly, road to Ossa.

Nadine's school.

I have since learned that the mistake that I made was as follows: on any red-blooded American bike, you shift while you are pedaling; else the chain gets all mucked up and falls off. German bikes are different. When you pedal while you shift on a German bike, the gearshift's cord, which over the years has worn down to but one lowly and slightly rusted wire, snaps. So, with the suddenly non-functioning gearshift, we eventually rolled into the driveway, tired from the ride.

This small misunderstanding regarding the mechanics of European bikes did have a nice outcome, however. Once we got back to Nadine's parents' house, we promptly turned around and headed up the road to the town of Geithain, where the bike-repair shop is.

Narsdorf to Geithain. And then back again. Ugh!

While the bike-repair people performed surgery on the wounded Fahrrad, we got to enjoy a small park with this monument:

This says (loosely): The fallen sons of the city of Geithain in the war for the Fatherland, 1870-1871.

and have Kuchen at a local bakery. We stopped at the bakery because they advertised éclairs. Since the monument was for local soldiers who fought in the Franco-Prussian War (1870-1871), I thought it only appropriate that we liberate the French- er, I mean German baked goods from French tyranny. Unfortunately, some things must not have translated quite accurately when the recipe was repatriated, and the éclairs were definitely not worth the Euro or two that we spent on them. We eventually arrived home, tired from our long day, but happy that the bike had been given a new lease on life.

Another curiosity in the former East Germany: small cobblestones with a "T" on them. During communist times, it meant that there was a telephone there in case of emergency.

So, there you have it. We are (apparently) more active than hibernating animals, and are enjoying our vacation here in beautiful Germany. As Nadine hinted, we visited Leipzig today, so look for a post on our trip there after we get back from another trip (to Chemnitz) tomorrow.

My erstwhile companion of late, Susi Schildkröte, in the Irmscher pond.

-Adam